What’s going on here?

Here you can learn what the IR-offset configuration for the “Lichtknarre”-Lightgun-tool is.

If you dont know what “Lichtknarre”-Lightgun is check this out:

https://geekonarium.de/en/lightgun-lichtknarre-for-the-wii-remote-on-your-pc-computer/

What is the IR-offset configuration?

The IR Offset configuration allows you to set the distance of the infrared lights from the edge of the screen or the edge of the game. If you want to use the software with more than one game, you should therefore set the IR offset to the edge of the screen and always play the games in stretched full screen mode.

The Software can’t know how much distance the IRs have to the screen/game, thats why it is configurable.

Visual examples for IR offsets:

Example 1

Here you can see offset from the screen and the offset from the game.

Example calculation for right offset:

Full width = 40cm
right screen offset width = 1cm
right game offset width = 3cm

right offset: (40cm / 100) * (1cm + 3cm) = 1,6% 

same calculations can be used for left/top/bottm.

How IR calibration works?

When you do the IR-offset calibration in the program, the program assumes that your games are all played in stretched full screen mode. If this is not the case, you must adjust the offset manually. Try and error.

The calibration in the programme is not perfect either. It is best to validate your values again with the mouse plug-in and adjust them if necessary. Test decrease and increase the values step by step.

Enter the values manually

You can do the calculations from the example1 or try and error based on the calibration with the following dialogs:

The values from the example1 must be entered in the right textbox, because we calculated right offset. You can apply this calculation also for left, top, bottom.

If you want to start the calibration hit the calibration-wizard dialog.

Whats going on here?

Here you can learn how to build LEDs for the “Lichtknarre”-lightgun software. 

Information on the “Lichtknarre”-lightgun software can be found here:  

https://geekonarium.de/en/lightgun-lichtknarre-for-the-wii-remote-on-your-pc-computer/

no warranty

This project has not been developed to comply with industry standards, so we do not guarantee anything and will not pay for damages or other problems.

Beware: Only use the circuit if the box is closed and do not touch the LEDs when powered.

Show me!

Beware the circuit it outdated in this video tutorial, because the seller changed specifications. Use specifications from this tutorial.

Do i realy need todo that much effort?

Depends. If you realy want the ultra Version which works on Beamer etc than maybe you should build this. Since 0.9.8 we have also the BAD-LED mode. Low powered IR-LEDs should work in most cases also now! Some people had reported that 980nm LEDs which are also used in the Wii sensorbar work well for normal TV/monitor sizes without BAD-LED mode. Never validated this, but just in case:

See BAD-LED mode:

https://youtu.be/2AiFrcu059I?t=962 

You can also lookup the tutorials of other users:

Tutorials from other Users

Shopping list

• 4 x 90° lenses
  • ebay
• 4 x IR 850 nm High Power LEDs 
  • ebay
  • 1.7V-1.9V
    • Seller changed specs. Now use 2.4V with 1 Ohm resistor:
      • Lookup: https://ledcalculator.net/#p=3.0&v=2.4&c=800&n=4&o=w
  • 850nm IR LEDs have not been tested yet. (Best would be 980nm)
• 4 x 1.5 Ohm resistors
  • Amazon
  • The resistors have to take 3W of power. They will become a little warm when powered.
  • Because 850nm High Power LEDs are used with 2.4V now we use these 1 Ohm reistors:
    • Amazon
• cable
  • Amazon
  • Music cables are good because +ve and -ve are together.
• 3V power adaptor which can output 800mA * 4 LEDs = 3200mA 
  • Amazon 
    • This AC-Adapter outputs 3000mA but i dont find a better one
• 4 x plastic cases (or use 3d printed parts): 
  • Amazon
  • diameter: 24mm, height: 30mm  
  • round
  • with a screw cap
• Lustre terminal, which fits in the plastic case.
• electronic cables
• round neodym-magnets
  • Amazon
  • 6mm diameter
• plastic distribution box (look 3d printed parts)
• Power supply adapter
  
  • Amazon

Equipment

1. soldering iron
2. hot glue
3. 2mm drill
4. super glue
5. and so on

3D print parts

Enclosures for electronics as 3d prints can be found here.

Housing is compatible with power supply adapter thanks to: 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2518532

Theory

We want to create following the circuit:

Here you can change the configuration of the circuit if you like: LED-Calculator

Assembly

All steps has to be repeated 4 times, because we are building 4 LEDs.

1. LEDs > case drilling

1. Put the LEDs on the closed site of the casing. Not on the side with the screw cap.
2. Mark 2 points. The holes should reach the + (positive) and – (negative) pole.
3. Drill the holes.

2. LEDs > superglue

Now superglue the LEDs. Be careful not to cover the holes and glue the holes that you can reach the +ve and -ve pole when you put cables through it.

3. LEDs > glue magnets

Now put the magnets in the screw cap. Ensure that the magnet pole faces in the same direction as the others. Put it in place with hotglue.

4. LEDs > Glue lustre terminal in and connect

Two pieces of a lustre terminal will be cut off. Connect 10mm electronic cable and connect this to the lustre terminal. Put the cable and lustre terminal in the case, so that the cables go through the holes. If needed cut off some plastic. After this solder the cables to the LEDs.

Put the lustre terminal in place in the case and hotglue it. But ensure that the screws can still be accessed in the future.

When the hotglue is cold mark the holes for the screws which are not connected with black edding. Then drill two holes in the case where the free holes in the lustre terminal are.

4. distribution box > resistors

1. Screw the LEDs together. The Leds should go in the same directions. (Look at the colours).
2. Prepare the electronic cables like as image 3.
3. Secure the cable with cable tie. Use black tie because it will become -ve pole. Not like in the picture.
4. Screw the cable to the -ve pole on the power adaptor and the other cables to the lustre terminal.

4. distribution box > prepare long cables

1. Cut off 4 cables. I would suggest 2 Meters, so its easy to use a beamer.
2. Solder the red cables on one side together. Look at image 3. Secure all with a cable tie. Screw it to the positive (+ve) pole of the power adoptor.
3. Screw the black cables to the free lustre terminal.
4. the other side of the cables should be soldered so that it is easy to screw it to the LEDs.

4. distribution box > Put everything in the box

Pack it all in the box as I did. Put the lenses on the LEDs and than you’re ready to go.

CAUTION: Only test the circuit if the box is closed. Do not touch the LEDs when they are under power. There is no warranty for anything that goes wrong.

Tutorials from other Users

• https://diylightgun.com/lightgun-details/?lgid=155#hardwaretab
• Low power LED holder with lens mount by Dragar:
  • https://thangs.com/designer/Dragar/3d-model/IR%20LED%20Lens%20holder%20for%20Lightgun%20Tracking-899769